Here is the list of sources and research I have used and referenced for my 1890s ball gown, undergarments and day wear project. I will update this as I go along.
Where I can, I have added the links so you can find the original source online.
Extant Examples
- ‘The Scott’ Ventilated Hip Pad & Bustle by Charles H. Scott, c. 1905. KL-2017-087. The Underpinnings Museum.
- Hip Pad-Style Bustle, c. 1895–1905. 2004.5.9. FIDM Museum.
- ‘Undergarment ensemble, circa 1900’, FIDM Museum & Galleries (12 March 2010).
Books
Primary
- Dressmaking, Up to Date (Butterick Publishing Company, 1905). — A reprint of this is sold as Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques, ed. by Kristina Harris (Dover, 1999).
- M. K. Gifford, Needlework (Thomas Nelson and Sons, [c.1910]).
- S. S. Gordon, The “Standard” Work on Cutting Ladies’ Tailor-Made Garments, revised edition (The Jno. J. Mitchell Co., 1908).
- Charles Hecklinger, The “Keystone” Jacket and Dress Cutter: A Treatise on Jackets, Dresses and Other Garments for Women (Herald of Fashion Co., 1895).
- Kristina Harris (ed.), 59 Authentic Turn-of-the-century Fashion Patterns (Dover, 2000) — A collection of dress patterns first printed in the 1890s in issues of The Voice of Fashion for use of dressmakers.
- Elizabeth Rosevear, A Text-Book of Needlework, Knitting and Cutting-Out, 4th edn (Macmillan and Co., 1907). [First edition published 1893].
- The Voice of Fashion, Vol XI, No. 45 (August, 1 1897) — a quarterly fashion magazine containing patterns and illustrations of the latest styles for the use of dressmakers.
- —, Vol XII, No. 46 (November 14, 1897).
- Agnes Walker and Jane A. Strachan, Manual of Needlework and Cutting Out, 8th edn (Blackie and Son, 1914). [First edition published 1897).
Secondary
- Janet Arnold, Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen’s dresses and their construction c. 1860-1940 (Macmillan, 1977).
- Stella Blum, Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper’s Bazar 1867-1898 (Dover Books, 1974).
- Izabela Pitcher, The Victorian Dressmaker: Making Clothes for Women (Prior Attire, 2018).
- Jill Salen, Corsets: Historical Patterns & Techniques (Batsford, 2008).
- Norah Waugh, Corsets and Crinolines (Routledge/Theatre Art Books, 1954, repr. 2004).
- — The Cut of Women’s Clothes 1600-1930 (MPG, 1968).
Websites
- ‘Making a Shirtwaist Blouse’ by Tea in a Teacup.
- ‘How to Floss a Corset’ by Sidney Eileen.
Documents
- US Patent for Ventilated bustle and hip-form US723495A by Charles H Scott (1903).
Of A Capricious Humour 