Part 1: Inspiration and ResearchPart 2: Pattern, Mock Up and UnderpinningsPart 3: Construction. Pattern and Mock-Up The Isabella gown is an example of a robe a l'Anglaise, with a few particular quirks of construction. This style was popular and gradually evolved during the course of the eighteenth century. The back of the bodice is cut… Continue reading 1780s Tartan Gown: Part 2
Fashion and Textile Museum in London is having an exhibition on Chintz from Fries Museum, The Netherlands 18 May – 15 August 2021
Did you know the word chintz refers to a technique, rather than to the fabric itself? As we look ahead to Chintz: Cotton in Bloom, we thought it would be fitting to explore the techniques used to create the textiles that will be displayed during this exhibition.
Origins: From India to Europe
The word chintz comes from the Hindi “chint” or Persian “chitta” meaning “spotted” or “printed”. Originally an Indian hand-painted or hand-printed calico, it became popular in Europe during the sixteenth and seventeenth century, when it was imported by the Portuguese and latterly the East India Company (VOC).
“after many tryalls bought my wife a chintz, that is, a painted Indian calico, for to line her new study, which is very pretty” – Samuel Pepys, Saturday 5 September 1663
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During work to take the items off display in the old costume gallery, we have made some exciting new discoveries about some of the items. One of these was a doll which the accession register tells us was dressed by Marie Antoinette for her daughter Marie-Therese during her imprisonment.
Marie-Therese(19thDecember 1778- 19thOctober 1851)Madame Royalewas the eldest child of Louis XV1 and Marie Antoinette. She was the only one of their children to survive into adulthood. She was married to Louis Antoine, Duke of Angouleme, who was the eldest son of future Charles X, her father’s younger brother; thus, bride and groom were first cousins.
After her marriage she was known as Duchesse of Angouleme. She became the Dauphine of France upon the accession of her father in law to the throne of France in 1824. Technically she was Queen of France for just twenty…
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Part 1: Inspiration and ResearchPart 2: Pattern, Mock Up and UnderpinningsPart 3: Construction. Inspiration and Research On display at the Inverness Museum & Art Gallery is a tartan wedding dress from the late eighteenth century: the Isabella MacTavish Fraser wedding dress. The dress was probably made shortly before January 1785 for the wedding of Isabella… Continue reading 1780s Tartan Gown: Part 1
End of June I visited Edinburgh, to attend the event at the National Museum of Scotland where a team of dressmakers recreated the Isabella MacTavish Fraser dress.
This is one of those rare surviving garments which people might recognize by name alone. But for everyone else, it’s this garment:
Isabella MacTavish’s Wedding Dress, c. 1785. Photo courtesy of the Inverness Museum & Art Gallery
This dress is special for several reasons. The first thing which speaks to people it that it was a wedding dress, is still owned by the same family, and was worn by several generations of brides after Isabella.
The second thing, is that it is the only known surviving example of 18th century women’s dress made of tartan. Add to that the lure of Scotland, the vibrancy of the colors, (and the current popularity of Outlander also doesn’t hurt), and you get a garment which has…
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Here is the list of sources and research I have used and referenced for my 1890s ball gown, undergarments and day wear project. I will update this as I go along. Where I can, I have added the links so you can find the original source online. Extant Examples 'The Scott' Ventilated Hip Pad &… Continue reading 1890s Project Research and Sources
Inspiration and Research To create the fashionable skirt shape for 1890s, I took inspiration from this example of 'The Scott' Ventilated Hip Pad & Bustle by Charles H. Scott, c. 1905 at The Underpinnings Museum. It is very similar to a design for a ventilated bustle and hip-form by Charles H. Scott patented in 1903. The… Continue reading 1890s-1900s Bustle Pad
The Project 1890s Ball Late-Victorian chemiseLate Victorian open drawers1880s-1890s corset1890s-1900s bustle pad1890s UnderskirtBall gown skirtBall gown bodiceDecorate shoes1890s walking skirt1890s shirtwaist 1780s Italian Gown Regency Regency corded stays WIPS C18th linen petticoats All whilst trying to use appropriate materials and techniques! Sources and Related Links
One of my Christmas presents was the much-anticipated The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking: How to Hand Sew Georgian Gowns and Wear Them with Style. I am a fan of their blog and -- of course -- their shoes. The English Gown in The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking, pp. 14-15. American Duchess Guide and Simplicity patterns The Project Linen shiftStaysUnder-petticoatEnglish Gown petticoatJacketEnglish Gown stomacherNeck handkerchief (fichu)1740s capMittsPocketApron All whilst trying to use appropriate materials and techniques! Sources and Related Links… Continue reading New Year, New Project – 1740s Costume